Our last meal in Italy was one of the highlights of the two week trip. Dinner at Alla Vecchia Bettola was the perfect mix of homey comfort, delicious food and unlimited house wine. Looking back, I wish I had cut a few days in Rome in favour of more time in Florence and Tuscany. We likely won’t be visiting Italy again soon but hopefully the next trip will include a reservation at Osteria Francescana.

Atmosphere: We headed to the restaurant as doors opened and had no issues being seated without a reservation. This was not the case for many well-reviewed restaurants in Rome, a happy difference. The restaurant was cozy with well worn wooden stools and marble table tops. I loved how warm the bustling space felt with a wall lined with wine bottles and brass sconces lighting each table. This was the kind of restaurant where dinner could easily stretch late into the night with good company and good food.

Service: While the menu was in Italian, it wasn’t too difficult to decipher with some Google Translating. Our server took our order in English and it was a just a short wait before our pasta dish arrived. The Florentine Steak was ready quickly after and we were left to enjoy our meal. I liked that the bread charge was clearly stated on the menu in large font.

Food: Dinner was good. Really really good. After placing our order Stephen and I started chatting with the older couple next to us. They told us how they came to Italy for their honeymoon years ago and loved the Penne alla Bettola (penne in vodka sauce) so much that they come back to Alla Vecchia Bettola almost annually for the dish. After just the first bite, I could see why. The pasta was an excellent texture and the sauce addictive. I liked how it was sweet and cheesy without being heavy and too creamy. Stephen and I both agreed we should have each ordered our own plate instead of one to share.

Then there was the steak, 40oz of beautifully cooked perfectly rare beef. We didn’t ask for a certain doneness while ordering and opted to embrace however the dish should be served. The steak was quite rare with a nice crust, lightly seasoned and extremely tender. We devoured the platter, but even for carnivores like us it was a feat. The bottle of house Chianti, which was unlimited, helped.

Overall, our meal at Alla Vecchia Bettola was superb, from the classic feel of the restaurant to the simply well cooked food. With a few missteps in Rome, I had been unsure if Italy was for me. The second part of our trip changed my mind with authentic flavours and stunning views.

After 12 hours of sleep I felt more human like and up for sightseeing. We took the day slowly with lots of stops and water. I was determined to recover in time to enjoy our Bistecca alla Florentina.

Places to See

Our first stop was the Florence Cathedral with its stunning exterior. We walked the entire perimeter, making sure not to miss the building from any angle. Inside, the interiors were simple and unadorned, save for the painted dome ceiling. Free tours were available in English that were quite informative. In between munching on sandwiches, I loved checking out the street vendors selling leather goods near Central Market. There was a black leather backpack that I fell in love with. While Stephen and I tried to figure out if I had the luggage room to bring the bag home, the seller took my indecisiveness for haggling and kept lowering his price. Alas, I ended up walking away, but I still think about that bag with a touch of regret!

We ended our afternoon walking along the Arno river and taking in the scenery. We walked across the covered Ponte Vecchio and then back across the neighbouring Ponte Santa Trinita to view it.

Sandwiches to Eat

I Due Fratellini – A literal hole-in-the wall spot, famous for their Tuscan bread, fresh ingredients and wine. With 30 sandwiches to choose from making a decision was hard. There was a small counter to place orders and the wall behind was filed with shelves of wine. The shop was easy to spot with a line outside and a crowd of people munching on sandwiches and sipping red wine. We stuck to a basic prosciutto filling, which was exquisite, salty and savoury, exactly what I needed.

L’Antico Trippaio – Lampredotto, cow tripe, is a famous Florentine dish and a must eat. For us, tripe isn’t exactly a unique or odd ingredient (actually one of my favourite foods to hotpot or at dim sum) but for many it could be considered exotic. Slow-cooked and seasoned, the Florentine version of tripe was tender and flavourful. The sandwich we tried at this sandwich stand was also super spicy.

Mercato Centrale Firenze – By the time we made our way to Florence Central Market, a full meal was out of the question (especially since we still had dinner in a few hours). Open from 10am to midnight, the two storey, covered market was a delight to window shop and a great rest spot. I was blown away by the selection of vendors, from fresh seafood and sushi to hamburgers and of course all the tuscany specialties. We snacked on a plate of prosciutto with a glass of wine before heading home for our afternoon nap. If we had more time in Florence, I would’ve loved to spend more time wandering the market.

The Hike: Monterosso to Vernazza

A few parts of the trail were narrow and others overlooked a steep mountain side (those with a fear of heights might have trouble) but overall the terrain was easy to manage, even in my Converse sneakers. The path weaved up, down and around the mountain through lemon orchards, dense greenery and open air with stunning views of the ocean.

Tip: Wear layers! Since we prepared to be out for the full day, we had to dress for it. While the morning and evening were cool, after a few hours of hiking in the sun, I was sweating. A few of the villages also had beautiful beaches and water access so a bathing suit layer may come in handy.

For me the hardest part of the trail was the start, leaving Monterosso to climb up and up the mountain was a lot of stairs. Our first stop was at a lemonade stand run by a family who owned one of the lemon orchards. The fresh lemons were wonderfully fragrant and the drink so refreshing in the heat. Another great restspot was a nook for stray cats set up with little houses and food.

The trail was busy in both directions with a wide variety of hikers. Some were decked out in full gear while others were dressed for a park stroll. I would recommend at the minimum wearing closed toe sneakers and bringing some water. There were two great photo spots once Vernazza came into sight. Catching a glimpse of the colourful city, I felt a sense of accomplishment (and a bit of relief).

The Train

After grabbing lunch in Vernazza we decided to take the train to the next 3 cities. Hiker, I am not. Train passes were available that allow unlimited travel with options of 1 day, multi day and family pricing. We had to be a bit more mindful of our time in each city but it was still a leisurely afternoon.

Tip: The train station at Corniglia was at sea level while the village itself was on the cliffs, 382 stairs up. There is a frequent shuttle bus between the village and train station if stairs are not your thing. The ride takes about 5 minutes and costs €1.50.

After climbing the stairs to Corniglia, I rewarded myself with a gelato before we moved on. Both Manarola and Riomaggiore had direct water access. At Manarola, tourists clambered on the rocks for the perfect shot. We were no exception but I wasn’t as daring to climb too high on the wet, slippery cliffs. Since many tourists were also running on a train schedule, the best time for photos was just as a train arrived to carry a group away before the next wave arrived.

In Riomaggiore, we ended our day with a fried seafood cone. The main street was lined with shops all hawking the local specialty with similar prices. We followed the crowd to the longest line and wasn’t disappointed.

Overall, the day was busy and I loved getting to explore each of the charming cities. If we had one more day, I would’ve loved to hike a few more of the trails.

Another choice I made while planning our Italy trip was deciding between Cinque Terre and Amalfi Coast. Between the two coastlines, what ultimately swung my decision was reading about the hiking at Cinque Terre. In all of my research, the Amalfi Coast had a more relaxed and resort feel while Cinque Terre seemed more active and rustic. After weeks in big cities, both Stephen and I enjoyed our two day mountain stay with fresh air, ocean views and more hiking than I was prepared for.

Where we stayed

We chose to stay in Monterosso al Mare, the northernmost and largest village of the 5. Sticking to Airbnb, we booked a private cottage in the mountains that was surrounded by lemon trees and had a stunning view of the ocean. Our host picked us up at the train station and drove us back, which was wonderful because the steep trek would’ve been very difficult with our luggage and then the entrance would’ve impossible to find without help.

The cottage was a brisk 10 minute walk to old town and the start of the hiking trail to Vernazza. From there, it was a just a few more minutes to the water. I really enjoyed the tranquility and peacefulness of being in the mountains, especially once the sun set. From the patio, the lights of the other 4 fishing villages sparkled in the dark. If you’re travelling with a lot of luggage or are less mobile I would recommend staying in town, which is a lot more accessible. The 15 minute trek down the mountain turned into 30 (maybe 45?) minutes on the way back.

Where we ate

Our first night in Monterosso, we had dinner at a lovely restaurant in the heart of old town. We walked by many seafood restaurants while exploring the beach and settled on Da Eraldo Piazza Agostino Poggi, because it felt cozy and relaxed. Service was friendly and there were no language barriers. We started with a Caprese Salad that was simple and refreshing. I chose the Frutti di Mare Pappardelle for my main while Stephen opted for the Pesto Lasagna. Both dishes were really good. I enjoyed the fresh seafood in mine and while Stephen’s lasagna wasn’t photogenic, it was incredibly flavourful. For dessert we split a molten chocolate cake, fuel for the the hike home.

On our second afternoon in town, we stopped by the grocery store to pick up ingredients for breakfast. At this point in our trip we had been travelling for nearly two weeks and both Stephen and I were missing home cooked meals. Having access to a kitchen is one advantage of booking with Airbnb that I love.

Unfortunately after dinner our second night, I fell ill. I’m not sure if it was food poisoning, but all the symptoms lined up. This made our trek down the mountain from our Airbnb to the train station extra difficult. Stephen had to manage both our carry ons while I tried my best to stay alive. Our original plan had been to stop for a few hours at Pisa on our way to Florence. However, I was passed out in my seat for the first half of the train ride and nearing Pisa, I was still in no shape to move.

Venice was one city where I wasn’t too concerned about food since our plan for the day was to wander. I had researched a few spots but for the most part was content to wing it as I didn’t know where our wandering would take us by dinner time. The one meal I had planned was lunch at Dal Moro’s, which didn’t even work out because they were closed that day. Oops.

Lunch ended up being near St. Mark’s square, which wasn’t terrible, but wasn’t very good either. It was a 3 course set menu at one of the many restaurants with an English menu outside, which should’ve been our first sign to keep walking, but we were hungry. I tried the seafood pasta while Stephen opted for some fried seafood. Neither was memorable enough for me to even make note of the restaurant name. In the same neighbourhood, many of the restaurants had displays of fresh seafood to entice diners.

Around mid-afternoon we found a grocery store and picked up fresh buns and prosciutto for under €5, making two very filling sandwiches. We ended the night at a cozy restaurant near our Airbnb that had a great beer selection.

Dal Moro’s: The famed pasta in a cup restaurant, recently opened in Toronto. Pick a fresh pasta and sauce, served in a convenient to go container for €5-€7.

Bigoi: The pasta in a cup restaurant we went to because Dal Moro’s was closed. We both enjoyed the al dente pasta and rich sauces. Each bowl was topped with a generous spoonful of parmesan. The sauces were helpfully labeled in English and with pictures (pig, cow, duck, etc.). Great price and pretty tasty. Their specialty is the cuttlefish in Black Venetian sauce. There was no seating but a small standing counter.

Stickhouse Venezia: Gelato on a stick and gourmet popsicles with multiple locations in Venice. Also offered a variety of lactose free desserts with soy gelatos and sorbets. Once you pick your popsicle, you can have it dipped in chocolate and coated with crushed nuts.

Acqua e Mais: Deep fried seafood in a cone, made fresh to order with a good variety. My cone had shrimp, fish and calamari for around €5. There is also a cone of just squid. The seafood was fresh and the batter very light.

As I planned our Italy trip, I debated between Milan and Venice. After Rome, the two cities diverged in opposite directions and as is we would only have a day to spend wherever we went. Ultimately Venice won out as Milan was more about shopping and our entire trip was more about sightseeing (which also meant I had to get my shopping done in Rome).

Arriving

We caught the 6:50am train departing Rome to arrive in Venice 3 and a half hours later. This gave us enough time to check into our Airbnb and eat lunch in the city. Just outside the train station was the main Vaporetto (water taxi) station. The route maps were easy to understand and we made it to our destination without difficulties. Once we started walking though, it turned out that Google Maps and the actual street signs in Venice didn’t match up for the specific street we were looking for. Stephen and I circled the same two blocks a few times before our host greeted us from a window above. Without that, we probably would’ve never found the apartment.
Tip: Since we were only staying for a day and planned to walk most of the time, we only bought water taxi tickets to get us to and from our Airbnb. Although in hindsight, a 1 day pass would have been more useful and a better value. If you’re staying longer or staying off the island I’d recommend looking into their day passes.

Do you need to stay on the island?

Honestly, the answer’s a definite no. I wanted to stay on the island because I thought it would be romantic and I read about romantic evenings in St. Mark’s Square enjoying a glass of wine and listening to live music. Actually, we ate dinner close to our AirBnB and was in bed by early evening, worn out from the early start and the full day of walking. Maybe with an afternoon nap, we would’ve made it later into the night. Once the sunset, there were also not a lot of people around. This was our most expensive Airbnb the entire trip.
Tip: With easy transit to Mestre (just 30 minutes) late into the night, finding accomodations off island the island would be more economical and you’re really not missing much.

The Tourist Sites

My plan for Venice was just to wander. I had made note of the 3 main tourist attractions but had no real plan or course plotted. The entire island was gorgeous and filled with adorable shops and eateries. Pretty much every bridge, building, street was stunning.
Tip: On every corner, there were street signs on the buildings, which made the confusing city fairly easy to navigate. However, because of all the canals and bridges, getting from point A to B usually took lots of detours and there were no straight lines. Be sure to allocate more time if you’re on any kind of schedule.

We didn’t venture inside St. Mark’s Basilica or the Doge’s Palace but enjoyed taking in the sights walking through St. Mark’s Square. Do not eat near the area though, most restaurants were tourist traps with overpriced and mediocre food. We thought we had ventured away far enough however with the winding streets, actually ended up at a restaurant just around the corner. I really liked walking through Rialto Market and we strolled across the famous Rialto Bridge although it was under construction. By this point in our trip, I was content with all the historic sites we saw in Rome and Naples that I was ok with spending our time exploring the shops and streets of Venice versus touring buildings. Every corner and building was picturesque.
Tip: There were lots of signs leading to paid public washrooms, although the signs start far away from the actual washroom. We followed them for at least 10 minutes before getting to the facilities. Be sure to have some change on you.

To Gondola or not to Gondola

Heading into the trip, I was very much on the fence about taking a gondola ride, on one hand it seemed really expensive and I’d rather spend the budget on a meal, on the other it would likely be a once in a lifetime experience (I don’t foresee us returning to Venice in the near future). While walking by the main gondola stops at lunch, the boats were filled with tourists and the whole deal seemed too crowded and forced. I did not feel like I was missing out and was willing to see if I changed my mind later in the afternoon.

As luck would have it, on our way out of the grocery store with lunch ingredients (bread and so much prosciutto for under €5!), a French couple approached Stephen and I to share a gondola boat with them and a grandmother and granddaughter duo. We wouldn’t have had the courage to arrange to split a ride so this was incredibly lucky. The French lady had already arranged everything with a Gondolier to pick us up right where we were. There are gondola stops all over the city if you’d like to avoid crowds, just look for an empty boat as you’re wandering.

So we got our gondola ride at a reasonable price and we barely saw any other boats the entirety of our ride.
Tip: Find people to split the ride. Each gondola fits 6 people and is a set rate per boat by time (‎€80 for 40 minutes). The ride also gets more expensive in the evenings as most tourists want the sunset views. Split between 3 pairs of 2, the once in a lifetime experience becomes far more reasonable.

Stephen and I attempted to have dinner at Ai Tre Scalini our first night in Rome, but seeing a queue outside paired with our growling stomachs we ended up across the street at Le Tavernelle instead that night. Being prepared for a wait, we tried again for our last meal in the city. This time, I was happy to wait outside the popular wine bar with a glass of wine munching on toasted bread until a table was available.

Atmosphere: Ai Tre Scalini had two sections, a casual bar area that was self seating and a slightly more formal dining area with tables. We opted to wait for a table, which took about 40 minutes. Diners were able to order from the wine menu while waiting and served a bowl of complimentary croutons. There were lots of signs posted by neighbours that sitting on their front steps was not allowed. Once seated, I really liked how lively and cozy the restaurant was. The restaurant doors were open to the street letting in the night air.

Service: Our server was friendly and knowledgeable when recommending a drinks for us based on our order and preferences. We had no issues ordering in English and understanding the menu. Each plate arrived quickly and we were checked on throughout our meal.

Food: To start, we ordered small bites of smoked olives home cured sausage. Both bowls came with a couple of chopsticks and were delicious snacks to go enjoy with my wine and Stephen’s beer. For more substantial fare, we tried the Pesto Gnocchi, Lasagna and a side of grilled artichoke, really my weakness while in Italy. Both pasta dishes were amazing, the gnocchi were pillowy soft with a great chew while the lasagna was meaty and cheesy. There was a generous topping of parm on both plates. I do wish the portions were a tad bigger, but they were appropriate for a tapas style meal. The one benefit of smaller pasta plates was that I actually had room for dessert, and the slice of lemon pie was sweet, tart, and the perfect way to end our meal.

After dinner, Stephen and I took one more stroll to The Colosseum to take in the night view. Next stop, Venice.

On our last day in Rome, Stephen and I set off bright and early from our AirBnb in order to make it to Vatican City early in the morning. We had planned to visit the Vatican Museums before lunch and then head over to St. Peter’s Basilica for the afternoon. When we arrived around 10am (the museum opens at 9am), there was already a line along one wall, but didn’t circle the block yet. Even then, we didn’t get past the gates until close to 11am.
Tip: If you’re not set on seeing The Pope avoid visiting on Wednesdays, which can be busier with the Papal Audience.

The Museums had a great collection of sculptures and artifacts but what I loved were the stunning frescos. There wasn’t much information about each of the artifacts posted and I found the audio guide we were using (Rick Steve’s) short on details. A Guided Tour may have made the experience more enriching for us. Navigating the rooms were easy and there was really only one path to follow. At some points, we felt like sardines swimming down the corridors packed with tourists. My favourite rooms were the last 3 galleries on the upper floor including the Tapestry and Map room. The only way to get to the Sistine Chapel is through the museum, which takes about 2-3 hours to walk through depending on your pace and the crowd. It’s 100% worth it.
Tip: Once you get to The Sistine Chapel, you’ll be asked to keep moving and keep voices down. Try to find a free spot on the benches along the wall to take in the seriously breathtaking ceiling. Note that photos aren’t allowed although some tourists will try to sneak in a shot. I found the quiet reflective moment quite a nice break from all the tourist activities.

At this point after hours of walking, I was ready for a break. Stephen and I grabbed a snack and coffee at the cafe and rested before heading over to St. Peter’s Square. Once we arrived, we saw another long queue. We were running a few hours behind schedule and were pretty hungry so decided it was time to go find food. We didn’t get the chance to go inside St. Peter’s Basilica or visit the Vatican Gardens, which I would’ve liked to see if we hadn’t run out of stamina.
Tip: The Vatican has its own postal office and issues their own postage stamps, sending a postcard from the city makes a great souvenir for family and friends.

Wandering down a side street just outside of the city, we found a area filled with small shops and cafes. Stephen and I picked up a delicious porchetta sandwich and a few scoops of gelato before heading home.

While planning our schedule for Rome, Stephen and I wanted to include a cooking class after our great experience in Bali. After a bit of research, I booked spots for us with Cooking Classes in Rome located in Trastevere. The entire experience was a lot of fun, hands on and informative. We learned about ingredients and cooking techniques that Stephen uses in our kitchen fairly often! I also loved the very detailed instructions that Chef Andrea emailed out after the class.

The Basics

Class was about 5 hours, starting at 10am, from start of cooking to end of enjoying our cooked meal. When we took the class, it was €65.00 per person. The cost has increased now to €75.00. We prepared 4 courses including dessert and were able to make requests when confirming our booking. Chef Andrea did a great job accommodating everyone’s requests and having all the components still prepared during the class. Wine pairings were available during the meal for an additional charge.

Getting to class was easy from our AirBnB via public transit and we found the address with no issues. While we waited for everyone to arrive (our class had the max of 12 people), Chef Andrea offered us cups of fresh coffee to start the day.

The Chef

Chef Andrea was super personable, fun and a great host and instructor. He led the class, made jokes, gave thorough directions and taught us about the ingredients we used in addition to the cooking techniques. The day of our class was actually his wife’s due date for their second child. He mentioned it to apologize for checking his phone throughout the class. We all understood.

The Cooking

During our class, we made 4 dishes including fresh made pasta, dessert and pizza. Chef Andrea gave an introduction to each dish before we started cooking and divided up the tasks. Everyone had the chance to chop, stir and knead as much or as little as they wanted to. The class was 100% hands on but there was also no pressure to take on anything you weren’t comfortable with (ie. depp frying pizza dough). I loved using the chitarra pasta maker and wish we had room in our luggage to bring one home.

The 4 hours passed quickly and each course came together from prep to cook. Once each dish was at about 90% completion, Chef Andrea took over to finish up and plate each dish, while the guests settled down at the table ready to enjoy.

The Meal

Our meal that day started with a mini deep fried pizza appetizer, meatballs in a tomato sauce, spaghetti carbonara and tiramisu. I loved the tiramisu (and grabbed the biggest slice), which was the best slice I had in Italy. The pasta was creamy and flavouful, also one of the best pastas we had on our trip. With all the different cooks in the kitchen, the thickness of the spaghetti was inconsistent leading to some strands being more cooked than others, but overall still delicious.

After a morning in the kitchen, sitting down to eat was incredibly satisfying and every bite was truly delicious.

Trattoria Vecchia Roma was our first big miss in Rome. Despite thousands of 4 star reviews from multiple sources online and a queue outside before doors opened, I found our meal incredibly disappointing. There wasn’t any dish that I truly enjoyed and none redeemed the meal. Stephen and I walked out of the restaurant confused and wondering what went wrong.

Atmosphere: The restaurant was located in the basement of a building with traditional decor, wooden tables and some exposed stone details. There were lots of tables and large parties could be easily accommodated. The majority of diners were tourists and the menu was written in Italian and English.

Service: We had no issues with service, which was professional and quick. Drinks, including water, was 2-4 Euros per bottle, but clearly priced on the menu. There was also a bread charge, again clearly marked.

Food: Perhaps I just didn’t enjoy what we ordered, but out of 5 dishes, I didn’t enjoy any of them. They couldn’t have all been duds or translation misunderstandings. To start, we ordered an appetizer of fried vegetables, verdure fritte that was served on a plate with a piece of parchment. The assorted vegetables were all shapes and sizes, which turned out to be mostly mushrooms. All of the pieces were pretty oily without much flavour.

Looking at reviews online, pretty much all I saw were plates of Cacio e Pepe. Since we had that the night before, we wanted to try something new. The pasta dish we ended up choosing was the Spaghetti with Guanciale, Zucchini and Truffle. This was the best dish of the night but not even close to the best pasta of our trip. The spaghetti was a good texture, but I felt the plate was under seasoned again. Maybe we should’ve stuck to a classic. For our protein, Stephen and I decided to try the Lamb Skewers and signature Oxtail dish. Continuing the theme of the night, I felt both dishes were bland and the oxtail quite oily. Our last plate was an attempt at getting another serving of vegetables, grilled vegetables, which included eggplant, peppers and zucchini. A pretty underwhelming side and again, underseasoned. Maybe my taste buds weren’t working that night.

Overall, Trattoria Vecchia Roma was fine. The restaurant was cozy and the service excellent. I’m not sure the food warranted lining up for a table or any of the rave reviews.