Stephen is a not an art gallery person. He likes museums but paintings have never really been his thing. While I like visiting both, my knowledge about art and history are fairly limited. For me the enjoyment comes from the experience of learning about each piece in the museum or gallery, its history, its impact, its story. Which is why I love audio guides, they are an absolute must for me when visiting any site.

My favourite museum in Paris is the Musee D’orsay, a converted train station filled with French impressionist art. I could stare at Monet’s waterlilies for hours. However, since this was Stephen’s first time in Paris, I felt a few hours wandering the Louvre was essential. Even at a quick pace, I would schedule at minimum 2-3 hours for a visit to the massive gallery. There’s just so much to see, simply walking through each section would take several hours. The Louvre’s complimentary audio guide is one of my favourites. All of the content, along with maps and added visuals were programmed into a DS, which was easy to navigate and provided a ton of information.

Tip: Instead of using headphones provided with audio guides, I like to bring my own set for comfort any typically better audio quality. For places where there’s a fee for the audio guide, you could bring a headphone splitter to save costs.

Highlights at The Louvre include a stroll through the statue garden, a close up (as close as possible) of the Mona Lisa, a stop at the magnificent Winged Victory of Samothrace, visiting the Venus de Milo, and a moment in front of the painting of Liberty Leading the People.

Tip: There’s always a long line at the pyramid entrance and it can get hot in the sun. Try going in though the underground Galerie du Carrousel or Passage Richelieu entrances, which are usually less busy.

After spending our afternoon inside, Stephen and I settled in the courtyard of The Louvre in front of the glass pyramid just in time for sunset. We ended up hanging around for over two hours while Stephen took photos and I people watched. The spot was very popular for engagement and wedding shoots. I counted at least 5 different couples while we were there, some with an entourage of photographers and assistants.

By this point, I was cold and hungry. Up to that point, we had eaten exclusively French cuisine and I was starting to crave Asian flavours. Ippudo was the perfect option for dinner. I’ve had Ippudo ramen previously in New York and Hong Kong. There are two Ippudo locations in Paris and one was only a 10 minute walk away from The Louvre and a 10 minute subway ride from our hotel. We arrived at around 10pm (they close at midnight) and there was still a small queue. It was only a 5 minute wait before we were seated.

To start we ordered two Ippudo Pork Buns. With all the buns I’ve tried all over, Ippudo’s still rank near the top. The baos were pillowy soft and the thick slices of chashu excellent seasoned. This was one of the rare occasions where Stephen and I ordered the same bowl of ramen, the Akamaru Modern. The bowl was made up of a milky miso tonkotsu broth topped with garlic oil and served with thin noodles. I love Ippudo’s thin noodles and this bowl lived up to all my memories. They were the perfect chew. Default toppings included two slices of chashu pork belly, wood ear mushrooms, nori and green onions. I opted to add a marinated egg to my bowl for an extra Euro.

The meal was very satisfying and exactly what I was craving at the time. Service was efficient and friendly and even with the short wait, I found the servers did their best to make sure we were seated quickly. The price though is hard for to get over. We’re pretty spoiled in Toronto in terms of delicious ramen at affordable prices. So paying 14€ (over $20) for one bowl of ramen was a bit hard to swallow. Even then, this wasn’t our last bowl of ramen in Europe.

And with this post we’re all wrapped up on Paris! Next stop, Italy!

During my second trip to Paris, my friend and I spent half a day in Versailles touring the palace. We had hoped to spend more time wandering the gardens and Marie Antoinette’s estate but had to get to Paris to meet friends in the afternoon. So when Stephen and I visited last year, I planned for us to spend a full day in Versailles.

Getting There

We headed out bright and early after breakfast at the W Paris, which had amazing croissants. Getting to Versailles from downtown Paris was easy and direct via the subway and commuter train (RER) system. The train ride takes an hour and then it’s another 10 minutes to walk from the station to the actual golden gates. Keep in mind that the train also only arrives every 10 minutes, so if you just missed one, the hour commute can end up being closer to 90 minutes. Once we arrived at the station, Gare du Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche, we followed the crowd that being being directed down the street. Turned out they were being directed to line up outside a third party travel agency that sold admission tickets. After realizing this, we left walked around the queue towards the official office, closer to the palace. Stephen and I decided on the passport ticket, which gave us entry to all of the attractions.

With our early start and visiting during off-peak season, the line to enter the grounds was fairly short. We even got to snap a few photos in front of the gate all by ourselves. Looking at the map, we decided to head first through the gardens to The Estate of Trianon, wander back in time for the afternoon fountain shows and end the day with touring the palace. For the most part the plan worked, there was a lot of walking involved and we only got slightly drenched in rain.

The Estate of Trianon

To get to The Estate of Trianon, Stephen and I walked straight down the certain of The Gardens. The landscaping was immaculate, but it did feel a bit sparse. I loved exploring the estate, which was a far more intimate and close-up experience than The Palace. We wandered around the grounds, exploring the Queen’s Hamlet, Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon. There were only a few other tourists around and for the most part, we felt like we were on our own.

I found Marie Antoinette’s estate super charming and loved being able to take my time walking through it. The walk back however was really far. Even though it was really only 30 minutes (one way), it was 30 minutes after being on our feet for over 2 hours already. We contemplated renting bikes, or buying a ticket on the little train that runs between the two attractions, but decided to just power through. We spent about 2 hours at The Estate of Trianon.

The Gardens

At first glance the gardens while expansive, were a bit sparse. However, I think the perfectly manicured lawns and trees look that way all year round. Based on the fountain show schedule, there was a recommended 1 hour or 3 hour tour. We opted for the 1 hour with some optional stops. My favourite fountain and music shows were the ones inside groves. Hidden away, behind tall trees and around bends, were beautiful intricate fountains, each different from the other and pretty spectacular. I would highly recommend stopping by as many groves as possible. I enjoyed the shows there more than at the large water fountains. While we were outside, it began to rain, first a light drizzle that became a steady shower. We took refuge in one of these groves, but eventually called it a day and went inside.

By this point, my feet were also very tired. Golf carts were available for rental and Stephen and I eyed them longingly as they drove by. We spent about 2 hours in the gardens.

The Palace

I have to admit, The Palace of Versailles was overwhelming. Partly due to the number of people and the tight hallways, but there’s just so much to see. From the wall size paintings, to the rich brocade walls to the ridiculously over the top ceilings, I wished I could sit in a corner in each room to take it all in. I’d highly recommend getting the complimentary audio guide that was entertaining and informative. One of my favourite paintings is The Coronation of Napoleon that takes up an entire wall of the coronation room. Listening to the audio guide, you learn about how the painting depicts Napoleon’s perspective of history, not necessarily the truth.

Each bedroom was more extravagant than than the previous with deep reds and lots of gold, so much gold. The rooms were a bit dark with the drapes closed to preserve the fabrics and paintings. I did feel like a sardine shuffling through the bedrooms, where much of the room was corded off, and tourists paused and crowded to listen to their guides.

The famous Hall of Mirrors was the definition of extravagant. Only photos can do the room justice. We spent about an hour touring the palace itself.

Laduree Versailles

Last but not least, my favourite souvenir from Versailles is the limited edition box of macarons from Laduree Versailles. The brocade mint box is available only at this location of Laduree and prepacked with their more popular flavours. I also picked up a Laduree keychain, my one souvenir from Paris to take home. I staged this photo on a guest bench inside the palace, I wouldn’t recommend it as there’s a strict no food or drink policy inside. The security guard watched me like a hawk but didn’t say anything until I tried to eat one, at which point he quickly came over to remind us of the rules. Oops. My bad. The temptation was too much.

My favourite Parisian macarons are actually Pierre Hermes, which are light and airy versus Laduree’s more cookie like shell. Whenever I see either though, I need to pick up a box.

My first experience with the Michelin Guide was in New York, 6 years ago. I had recently graduated university and was still living at home, thus had a healthy amount of disposable income. My friends and I started travelling regularly and I started to really dive into restaurants. That summer, I had dinner at Dovetail, a one Michelin Star rated restaurant next to Central Park for about $60 and thought it was such a splurge. Later that year, I visited Europe with another group of friends stopping by London and Paris. In London, our more affordable (relatively) splurge was a 3 course lunch at a one Michelin Star restaurant that’s now closed. Then we went to Paris and I spent over three figures on one meal for the first time ever. Our lunch at Le Bristol, a 3 Michelin Star restaurant, was actually life changing and made me a cheese fan. Since then, the 3 hour lunch has been the pinnacle of my restaurant experiences. I couldn’t wait to share a similar one with Stephen during this trip.

Looking at all the 3 Michelin star restaurants in Paris, I decided to stick to lunch as it was much more affordable. Most dinners menus started at over €300 base, while lunch was in the €150-€200 range. Originally I had booked lunch at a 3 star Alain Ducasse restaurant, Le Meurice, but a week after making our reservation the 2016 Michelin guide came out and Le Meurice had lost a star. Meanwhile, both Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee and Le Cinq gained their 3rd star. I debated for weeks between the two restaurants, second guessing my decision. Finally, what it came down to was value. Both offered lunch menus priced at €210, but Le Cinq was 6 courses vs Ducasse’s 3. I knew there would be little nibbles and bites in between the “official” meal, but I didn’t want to bet on it. Also, Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee looked just a bit too fancy (and shiny) for comfort. I was already making Stephen pack dress shoes, a tie, shirt and khakis across Europe for just this one meal, I didn’t want even the chance of feeling uncomfortable.

Dress code was something I was worried about, more for Stephen than me. I figured I could get away with a dress, cardigan and strappy sandals. Stephen however would need pants, a shirt, dress shoes and a jacket. I emailed the restaurant to ask about borrowing a jacket and they assured me that wouldn’t be a problem. Awesome, one less thing to pack. Once we were settled at our table, me perched on a wonderfully plush pillow, I had to admit many of the other male diners were dressed down a lot more. Lots of jeans, tennis shoes and “sports jackets”. Still no t-shirts or shorts though.

Service was impeccable. Our table was so incredibly spacious and could easily have seated 4-6 people comfortably, but just for the two of us. My seat was a full couch, which had to shifted every time I got up, and a server appeared every time I needed to. Stephen and I had already decided on the set course but I was looking for a glass of wine to accompany lunch. Looking through the menu, I was a bit confused as there wasn’t any prices listed. When the server came to take my order, I looked to Stephen, but he looked as confused as I did. Turns out only my menu didn’t have prices, while his did, so he didn’t understand my confusion. I left the decision up to the sommelier with the flavours I prefered and price range. He did a wonderful job picking a fruity white for me.

As for food, because the menu changes so frequently, I’ll mostly be sticking to the general meal versus my usual in depth dish by dish commentary. Our first bite was bread, a server brought by a tray of freshly baked goodies for us to choose from, and then returned after the first course. I couldn’t resist trying all of them. What stood out about each dish was the quality of the ingredients. The peas were incredibly sweet and brilliantly green, the best peas I’ve ever tasted. The amuse-bouche was a trio of bites including a gelatinous sphere filled with a ginger citrus syrup and another crunchy sphere filled with tangerine juice. The third bite was foie gras and passion fruit. One of my favourite courses was the other complementary course before dessert, another trio of bites that included a mini wild strawberry pie, bite of kumquat and an almond grapefruit cookie. Exquisite.

The sauces, oh my, the sauces. Every sauce was delectable but the asparagus dish was the best example of their use. Freshly harvest asparagus was served with black truffle puree, green asparagus puree, milk skin and a sabayon. There was creamy, rich, acidic, sweet, and pure umami all on a plate. I was blown away by the deconstructed French Onion soup, where the broth was served in spheres, literally bursting with flavour, with a black truffle sauce and parmesan croutons. For my main, I chose the Red Mullet with fish liver Chinon red wine sauce while Stephen chose the Lamb with Semolina scented with Olive and Lemon with spiced lamb sausage.

Dessert was a slab of Pistachio ice cream topped with Cranberries cooked in their juice with tangerine marmalade for Stephen and a “Chocolate Bar” with salted caramel filling for me. From start to end, lunch was just over 2 hours and near the end of our seating Chef Le Squer came visited the dining room to greet each table, even posing for photos. Overall, our meal at Le Cinq was memorable from the moment we sat down and an incredible experience.

Our second “very French” dinner in Paris was at Comptoir de la Gastronomie. After scouring the Internet for possible dinner spots known for foie gras, I settled on the restaurant because of great reviews from both locals and tourists, mid range in price, and the fact that they took reservations. A few other restaurants that piqued my interest with similar great reviews and price range unfortunately all warned of long line ups. I went with the safer bet, still having to make a reservation weeks in advance, and was very happy with my decision.

Atmosphere: Comptoir de la Gastronomie was half shop, half restaurant. During the day, the shop stocked champagne, foie gras, caviar, truffles and a host of other delectable ingredients. The restaurant portion of the establishment opened at noon with a dozen tables and tall shelves filled with wine. Both parts of the building was charming with chalkboard menus, plush red curtains and wood tables. When we visited, diners were split evenly between tourists and locals.

Service: Stephen and I arrived at the restaurant a few minutes past our reservation, panting, as we had hustled from the subway station. The hostess greeted us with a smile and led us to our table where we settled to catch our breath. We had no issues with communication and an English menu was available for both food and wine. I had read online about tourist ordering Steak Tartare in Paris and being left to season the dish themselves, which made me avoid the dish. In a similar vein, while service was nice, I did feel like we were expected a basic knowledge of French cuisine, ie. how to use the escargot tools.

Food: To start, Stephen and I ordered 6 Bourgogne Snails, which were massive. Each snail was smothered in a garlic herb butter, chewy and meaty. If you’ve never tried them before, this would be a great first experience. Next was Pan Seared foie gras. After tasting the various foie gras at Le Petit Canard, we were ready to have it seared and oh my. The portion served was so thick, almost an inch, and the size of my (albeit small) palm. Perfectly seared, sprinkled with sea salt and served on a piece of ginger bread, each bite was foie gras heaven, and for only €17! Amazing.

For entrees, we order the Duck Breast and in an attempt to get some greens, the Gourmande “Salad”. Although salad in name, the dish had as much meat as vegetable. The mixed greens was topped with more foie gras, slices of smoked duck breast, gizzards, and a duck leg. The duck breast had a perfect crispy skin and a savoury sauce. While both of these dishes were good, the surprise hit of the evening was the bowl of Truffle Cream Foie Gras Ravioli. There was just so much flavour and umami, we pretty much licked the plate clean. I would’ve skipped both the duck breast and the salad for two more bowls of ravioli. This was a seasonal dish, but if you see it on the menu, I’d highly recommend it.

Of all the monuments and tourist attractions in Paris, my favourite is The Notre-Dame de Paris, specifically climbing the tall towers to get up and close with the gargoyles and take in their view. If you’re researching the cathedral, note that access to the Towers is managed by a separate organization than the cathedral itself.

• Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral – Daily from 7:45am to 6:45pm, Free to access
• Towers of Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral – Varies, generally from 10:00am to 5:30pm, 10 Euros

The Towers are not open everyday, so I would highly recommend checking the website ahead of time and not all levels are accessible everyday. The total climb up is 422 steps and mostly circles around a tight staircase. On my last trip to Paris, I climbed both the Arc de Triomphe and Notre-Dame. Between the two, I 100% wanted to climb Notre-Dame again.

This is a popular attraction and there is a limit to the number of people admited daily. The last admission is 45 minutes before closing and there is usually already a line outside an hour before the towers open. I’d recommend aiming for 9:00-9:30 depending on how the rest of your day looks. On this trip, it actually took us two tries to get in. The first day, we stopped by around noon to a 2 hour queue and decided to just take in the stained glass windows and interior. The second day, we got up earlier.

From the top of the tower, there’s a stunning view of the back of Notre-Dame, the bell tower, the Eiffel Tower and even Sacré-Cœur. Each of the stone gargoyles are unique and charming, a few even carry a fish in their mouths, a snack for later. I won’t lie, the climb up isn’t the easiest, but going at a steady pace, I made it (lagging just a bit behind the main group). There is time to take breaks and windows along the way.

After touring the towers I would recommend going inside the cathedral if you haven’t yet. We proceeded to walk around the side and back of Notre-Dame, another beautiful perspective of the building. We then crossed a bridge, making our way to the neighbouring island and more importantly, Berthillon ice cream stand. Two scoops of creamy tiramisu ice cream makes the perfect reward after the morning’s exercise.

Another 10 minute walk North across Pont Marie brought us to lunch at L’as Du Fallafel, and arguably the best falafel sandwich in Paris. Stephen and I opted for the Chicken Shawarma and after the first bite, I was convinced. The pita bread was thick, almost naan like, and the garlic sauce was so good, tons of garlic flavour but also balanced with a bit of acidity. Lucky for us there wasn’t a line but even if there had been the ordering process was very efficient. As soon as we approached the shop, someone asked us if we were eating in or taking to go and took our order right away. The pickup window was a peek into the speedy production of sandwiches in the kitchen. All in all, we had our shawarma in hand within 5 minutes to share. I debated going back for a second of my own.

As I was planning our trip to Paris I asked Stephen what he wanted to do, this being his first time visiting the city. His reply was croissants and foie gras. With that in mind, I set out to research restaurants. In general when I’m travelling, I like to limit the number of reservations to 1 or 2 so that our schedule doesn’t feel too constrained. Once reservations are made, I like to bookmark a variety of restaurants in different neighbourhoods, which can be slotted into our itinerary depending on where we are when we get hungry. Lastly, having dinner options near our hotel is key, perfect for heading straight home after or fitting in an afternoon nap beforehand if need be.

Our first dinner in Paris was in response to Stephen’s foie gras request. Le Petit Canard was a cozy French restaurant located just blocks from either Pigalle or Saint-Georges metro station. We stopped by around 9pm, late for when we usually eat dinner but quite normal for Paris, and was seated right away. The restaurant only had about 10 tables, which quickly filled up after us. I loved how charming the space felt from the chili pepper table cloths to the collection of wooden duck figurines carefully balanced along a picture frame. Conversation hummed around us, there was a full wine glass by every hand, and the feel of comfort and happiness in the room was palpable.

I knew service in Paris could be a challenge and set my expectations for cold and aloof. Le Petit Canard was the exact opposite. Our server was friendly, warm, smiled a lot, and our food arrived quickly. An English menu was available and we had no language issues.

To start, Stephen and I ordered the Onion Soup and half a dozen Escargot. The soup, made with red wine, was thick and savoury with a thick layer of gooey melted cheese. Each plump snail was buried under a mound of butter and garlic. The texture was chewy but not rubbery and meaty.

On to the main event, a tasting plate of 3 types of Foie Gras. Duck shaped crostinis decorated the otherwise simple plate with a spoonful each of fig jam and caramelized onions. Usually when I eat foie gras, it’s been pan seared, and I really liked trying out the delicacy in its uncooked state. Each bite was just amazing. A touch of jam added sweetness and acidity to each bite, cutting through the pure richness and rounding out the flavour. With the foie gras tasting and starters, we decided to order only one main to split and chose the Duck Confit. Delicious. The duck was perfectly cooked and just fell off the bone.

Overall, dinner at Le Petit Canard was lovely. After a full day of running from one tourist attraction to another, the homey, delicious meal was the perfect note to end on.

Last year, Stephen and I went to Europe together for the first time. Both of us had been to the continent before with friends, but never with each other. We debated between Italy and Spain. When a flight deal popped up for Italy via Paris and back through Amsterdam, our destination was decided for us. Our itinerary began with a few days in Paris, followed by 2 weeks through Italy and then 2 nights in Amsterdam. This was my third time in Paris and Stephen’s first. I planned for us to hit all the classic tourist spots, just the one museum, and plenty of tasty stops in between.

During our time in Paris we stayed at the W, which was centrally located, right across from The Opera House and a 5 minute walk to the Galeries Lafayette (department store similar to Saks). We dropped off our bags and immediately began walking towards the Jardin des Tuileries and more importantly Angelina cafe. I picked up one of their famous mont-blancs to go while Stephen got a croissant and espresso. With snacks in hand, we began our 2.5km stroll along one of the most well-known streets in the world towards the Arc De Triomphe. Walking below the Arc De Triomphe is one of my favourite sights in the city. I would also recommend climbing the 284 stairs to the top and taking in the stunning 360° view.

By this point we were ready for lunch and a nap. Hopping on the super affordable Paris subway, we headed back to our hotel. We got off at La Fayette station to grab lunch at the Food Hall and a box of Pierre Hermé macarons, my favourite in the entire world.

Our plan was to get to the Eiffel Tower to watch the sunset. The best spot to take in the Eiffel Tower is definitely across the Lena Bridge at the Jardins du Trocadero. We spent a solid hour taking photos at the garden and then slowly making our way to the base of the Eiffel Tower. With the blue sky and cotton candy clouds, every moment was breathtaking as the light changed. Once the sun fully set, we hung around Champ de Mars to watch the twinkling light display.

When we visited, the temperature was quite chilly. During warmer weather, I’d recommend taking a night cruise on The Seine, starting at the Eiffel Tower as a great way to end the day.

Stephen and I ended our night with a Nutella Crepe from the food stall by the Carousel. We ate many more crepes while in Paris, but this was by far the best one.

My strategy is to look for tasting menus or lunches to make the dining experience more affordable. It’s been working so far and I do love researching new restaurants.

Dovetail – 1 Star – NYC, USA
Visited: July 2011

• Sunday dinner, 3 course set menu: $58, regular dinner, 4 course set menu: $88
  • I was lucky enough to be able to make a reservation for Sunday night and it worked with when I was in NYC
  • Dovetail also offers a Chef Tasting menu for each night with an option for wine pairings
• Dovetail is located right by Central Park and is a perfect stop after an afternoon of wandering through nature if you’re doing the tourist thing.
• Presentation was beautiful, rich and hearty flavours

Arbutus – 1 Star – London, UK
Visited: August 2011

• Pre-theatre dinner, 2 courses £18.95, 3 courses £20.95
• Located in the theatre district, this was the perfect location to grab dinner before watching Les Miserables while in London
• The restaurant offered a relaxed and intimate feel
• A great value option for London, their sister restaurant Wild Honey is also a great choice with a 3 course lunch menu for £29 and dinner entrees ranging from £12 to £35

Le Bristol Restaurant – 3 Star – Paris, France
Visited: September 2011

• Summer lunch set €85, including drinks, tax, coffee, came to €140
• Situated in Le Bristol hotel, our lunch spanned a good 3 hours, had over 10 courses (including cheese, petite fours and amuse bouches and special bread for certain course) and is still the best meal I’ve ever had.
• The service was impeccable, honestly they put up with three excited, giggling Asian girls who wanted to take pictures of everything with a level of class and friendliness that was exceptional.
• The food was too die for. This meal made me realize I didn’t dislike cheese, a belief that I had held for all my life, and opened up my palate to appreciate a whole new set of flavours.
• The technique of each dish was also mind boggling. One of the entries was squid, cut to mimic grains of rice and cooked like a risotto. That dish still haunts me today.
• It was an experience that made me fall even more in love with food and is one of the reasons why this blog exists.
• After a lot of Googling, I’m not sure if the lunch menu at Le Bristol is still available or not, which would be sad. I had an amazing experience and would have highly recommended the meal to anyone looking for a “affordable” Michelin Star experience in Paris