Our last meal in Italy was one of the highlights of the two week trip. Dinner at Alla Vecchia Bettola was the perfect mix of homey comfort, delicious food and unlimited house wine. Looking back, I wish I had cut a few days in Rome in favour of more time in Florence and Tuscany. We likely won’t be visiting Italy again soon but hopefully the next trip will include a reservation at Osteria Francescana.

Atmosphere: We headed to the restaurant as doors opened and had no issues being seated without a reservation. This was not the case for many well-reviewed restaurants in Rome, a happy difference. The restaurant was cozy with well worn wooden stools and marble table tops. I loved how warm the bustling space felt with a wall lined with wine bottles and brass sconces lighting each table. This was the kind of restaurant where dinner could easily stretch late into the night with good company and good food.

Service: While the menu was in Italian, it wasn’t too difficult to decipher with some Google Translating. Our server took our order in English and it was a just a short wait before our pasta dish arrived. The Florentine Steak was ready quickly after and we were left to enjoy our meal. I liked that the bread charge was clearly stated on the menu in large font.

Food: Dinner was good. Really really good. After placing our order Stephen and I started chatting with the older couple next to us. They told us how they came to Italy for their honeymoon years ago and loved the Penne alla Bettola (penne in vodka sauce) so much that they come back to Alla Vecchia Bettola almost annually for the dish. After just the first bite, I could see why. The pasta was an excellent texture and the sauce addictive. I liked how it was sweet and cheesy without being heavy and too creamy. Stephen and I both agreed we should have each ordered our own plate instead of one to share.

Then there was the steak, 40oz of beautifully cooked perfectly rare beef. We didn’t ask for a certain doneness while ordering and opted to embrace however the dish should be served. The steak was quite rare with a nice crust, lightly seasoned and extremely tender. We devoured the platter, but even for carnivores like us it was a feat. The bottle of house Chianti, which was unlimited, helped.

Overall, our meal at Alla Vecchia Bettola was superb, from the classic feel of the restaurant to the simply well cooked food. With a few missteps in Rome, I had been unsure if Italy was for me. The second part of our trip changed my mind with authentic flavours and stunning views.

After 12 hours of sleep I felt more human like and up for sightseeing. We took the day slowly with lots of stops and water. I was determined to recover in time to enjoy our Bistecca alla Florentina.

Places to See

Our first stop was the Florence Cathedral with its stunning exterior. We walked the entire perimeter, making sure not to miss the building from any angle. Inside, the interiors were simple and unadorned, save for the painted dome ceiling. Free tours were available in English that were quite informative. In between munching on sandwiches, I loved checking out the street vendors selling leather goods near Central Market. There was a black leather backpack that I fell in love with. While Stephen and I tried to figure out if I had the luggage room to bring the bag home, the seller took my indecisiveness for haggling and kept lowering his price. Alas, I ended up walking away, but I still think about that bag with a touch of regret!

We ended our afternoon walking along the Arno river and taking in the scenery. We walked across the covered Ponte Vecchio and then back across the neighbouring Ponte Santa Trinita to view it.

Sandwiches to Eat

I Due Fratellini – A literal hole-in-the wall spot, famous for their Tuscan bread, fresh ingredients and wine. With 30 sandwiches to choose from making a decision was hard. There was a small counter to place orders and the wall behind was filed with shelves of wine. The shop was easy to spot with a line outside and a crowd of people munching on sandwiches and sipping red wine. We stuck to a basic prosciutto filling, which was exquisite, salty and savoury, exactly what I needed.

L’Antico Trippaio – Lampredotto, cow tripe, is a famous Florentine dish and a must eat. For us, tripe isn’t exactly a unique or odd ingredient (actually one of my favourite foods to hotpot or at dim sum) but for many it could be considered exotic. Slow-cooked and seasoned, the Florentine version of tripe was tender and flavourful. The sandwich we tried at this sandwich stand was also super spicy.

Mercato Centrale Firenze – By the time we made our way to Florence Central Market, a full meal was out of the question (especially since we still had dinner in a few hours). Open from 10am to midnight, the two storey, covered market was a delight to window shop and a great rest spot. I was blown away by the selection of vendors, from fresh seafood and sushi to hamburgers and of course all the tuscany specialties. We snacked on a plate of prosciutto with a glass of wine before heading home for our afternoon nap. If we had more time in Florence, I would’ve loved to spend more time wandering the market.