It seems like Stephen and I just got married yesterday (he may disagree haha), and yet here we are at the 5 year mark. Half a decade, 11 countries visited, 2 cars, 1 condo, 1 house, 1 cat farewell and 1 amazing Alivia. I almost feel like a real adult. This year’s celebrations are still unknown (wine and Animal Crossing?), but last year’s dinner at Yukashi was one to remember. I never planned to have over a year of backlogged blog posts, but they sure do come in handy during a pandemic.

Atmosphere: Yukashi is a small Japanese restaurant located in Davisville specializing in Omakase. The dining room had a handful of tables and 8 counter seats with a view to the open kitchen, Chef Daisuke Izutsu masterful cooking and arteful plating. Stephen and I didn’t talk much during our 3 hour meal because we were too busy watching each plate come to life. I always love being able to interact (ie. silently watch) with chefs and the experience at Yukashi was delightful, especially with how intricate and beautifully plated the main courses were. Decor in the dining room was simple with wood details. Floating shelves in the kitchen displayed the restaurant’s collection of unique serving platters. Dinner was peaceful at a relaxed slow pace, perfect for any celebration or special occasion.

Service: Sitting at the chef’s table we were served directly by Chef Izutsu. Each course was introduced in detail and it was a pleasure watching Chef Izutsu work. Next to us was a solo diner and a family of four with two middle school aged kids celebrating their dad’s birthday. Chef Izutsu asked the young boy to help him grate fresh wasabi and jokingly checked in on his process before our first course arrived. If available, I would highly recommend getting a seat at the bar.

Food: Chef Izutsu has been cooking in Toronto for almost 2 decades from his first restaurant Kaiseki Sakura to pioneering izakaya culture at Don Don to Chef de Cuisine at Kasa Moto in Yorkville. He opened Yukashi in 2018 with a simple omakase menu, 4 ($75) or 9 ($150) courses, and a special Yukashi option ($300) with limited availability. A la carte is also available featuring dishes served in the omakase meals.

Stephen and I both chose the 9 course dinner. He was driving and I’m not a lightweight, so no sake pairing for us but I did get a glass to sip on. The menu laid out each course with simple titles like “meat dish” and “tempura dish”, hiding the complexity of ingredients and unexpected combinations of flavours to come. We truly were in Chef Izutsu’s hands and they served a parade of inventive dishes with foundations in classic Japanese flavours and cooking techniques.

Our meal started with deep fried black sesame tofu with a light fish sauce and topped with yuzu zest and wasabi. The dish was pleasantly sweet, nutty and with a variety of textures. Next was a chawanmushi (steamed egg) with clam dumpling green tea sauce and salted sakura. An interesting dish but not the strongest of the night. Next was the sashimi course, and one of my favourites. Gorgeously plated bites of fish on a round marble platter with an assortment of garnishes for each diner to explore and experiment with. The fish served was toro, smoked yellowtail and red snapper. That smoked yellowtail was so bomb, i’m salivating reliving that rich smoky flavour. Stephen and I seriously contemplated how to replicate the smoking process at home. One of my favourite dishes at Don Don Izakaya is their smoked fish as well.

This was followed by pure bliss, a very delectable bite of foie gras, uni and wagyu torched tableside. Half a shiso leaf was served alongside to help tame the richness. This was Stephen’s favourite course of the nine and we still had 4 more to go. The harvest platter was stunning and assembled with an assortment of seasonal vegetables and seafood. It was daunting to figure out where to start. Some elements jumped off the platter, but my favourite part was actually the sauces, distinct and well seasoned.

The meat dish was slices of duck breast with a soft egg yolk served on sakura rice. Another decadent dish and better on paper than in the bowl. I found this one a little heavy on the salt. At this point, we had been too spoiled by the previous courses. Tempura was next, two pieces of a maki roll in a light, flakey batter with a piece of deep fried fish skin. A nice bite and the right portion size.

My second favourite course of the night was the rice course, just rice with ikura and seaweed in a dashi broth. Simple, but so comforting with the right amount of umami and warmth, the perfect way to wrap up a meal. This is the kind of bowl I crave often. For dessert we each had a slice of muskmelon. From rind to centre, the melon had a perfectly consistent ripe texture, was bursting with juice and so sweet. Arguably the best melon I’ve ever had and can now fully understand why they cost hundreds of dollars.

Overall dinner at Yukashi was a wonderful, intimate way to celebrate our anniversary. We were spoiled and surprised with delicious ingredients of the best quality. The meal delighted every sense with charm and a sense of playfulness.

Atmosphere: Zen Sanuki Udon is the new restaurant from Chef Seiichi Kashiwabara, of Zen sushi bar in Markham, one of the best loved omakase spots in the GTA. Walking into the noodle shop, the decor was more reminiscent of a sushi restaurant with open kitchen bar seats and modern natural wood decor. I arrived for the first dinner seating on a weeknight, a week after the restaurant opened, and by the time we were leaving, the restaurant was hitting capacity. I would not be surprised if a queue is still common during peak dinner hours today.

Service: I arrived first to the restaurant and was seated by the hostess with a smile. While waiting for my friend, my server brought over water and menus, also with a friendly smile. We both ordered cold noodle dishes, with no appetizers, and our bowls of noodles were ready quickly and concurrently. I noticed that this was not the case for the couple at the table next to us. One bowl of udon was served to the man and the woman looked around furtively for her meal. It was a noticeable gap before her order was ready. A small wrinkle, not unfathomable of a new restaurant, and one that is easily ironed out over time. Based on my own experience alone, the service was great.

Food: The menu at Zen Sanuki was pretty extensive and covered all the varieties of udon dishes I was expecting. There was also a section for donburi, rice bowls, with BBQ eel and sashimi. For the udon dishes, there was also a list of toppings you could add from an onsen egg to sliced week to wakame salad. With the temperature that day being over 30 degrees, my friend and I both decided to go with a cold udon. I opted for the Ikura Oroshi Udon while she had the Niku Bukkake.

My bowl arrived topped with ikura, wakame, tempura bits, slices of fish cake, chopped shiso leaf and green onions. There was a but of cold broth, just enough to keep the noodles moist and add flavour. My friend’s bowl was topped with thin slices of marinated beef, wakame, grated garlic, green onions, two slices of fish cakes and an onsen egg (super soft boiled). The udon texture was chewy and firm and the seasoning mild but delicious. So good and such an authentic bowl. I want to go back and pretty much try ever dish on the menu. Ingredients range from simple and comforting like curry and tempura to decadent and rich like wagyu beef and BBQ eel.

Being a sister restaurant to Zen, there is some sushi on the menu, most noticeably a daily hand roll. On the day of my visit, it was trout and I couldn’t resist adding it to our order. The role was prepared onigiri style, with a plastic wrap separating the rice and seaweed for the diner to assemble just before eating. The quality of the fish was good and for $6, a nice addition.

Overall, dinner at Zen Sanuki Udon was a treat. Excellent quality ingredients and amazing fresh noodles made in house daily.

Atmosphere: Peter Luger has been in existence for over a century and has been rated as one of the top steakhouses in New York for the past 3 decades. The steakhouse has been awarded one Michelin star and is a Brooklyn institution drawing regulars and tourists alike. Our reservation was for the first seating of the day at lunch. We took the train to Brooklyn and recognized a few couples later in the dining room. The restaurant simply oozed charm from bowtied waiters to tudor style dining rooms lit with gold chandeliers. I loved the bare wood tables, which soaked up grease like a sponge and the menus with handwritten prices. Dress code ranged from casual to Sunday brunch.

Service: When we visited, reservations were only taken via phone and organized by hand on a giant schedule. Today, reservations can be made through their website up to 6 weeks in advance. Taking a look, there was plenty of availability for parties of 2 at lunch, even the day of but very limited dinner spots within the 6 week window. A portion of the dining room is still held for phone reservations and walk-ins.

Our server was friendly and happy to let us snap a few photos before he served the steak on to our plates. He chatted with us briefly and checked in on us throughout the meal. There was always a server present in the dining room keeping an eye on diners without being obtrusive.

Note that Peter Luger does not accept credit cards or Canadian debit cards. Cash would be the way to go.

Food: As Stephen and I read through the menu, our server brought over a bread basket with soft buns, two pats of butter and a gravy boat of steak sauce. One of the main reasons I wanted to secure a lunch reservation was to try the Luger Burger. We debated between ordering the Steak for Two or Rib Steak and settled on the smaller option. I’m glad we chose the single steak as it was still more than enough to share.

Cooked to a beautiful medium rare, the rib steak was simply mouth watering. I loved the heavy char and the fat cap was exquisite. The taste of the aged beef was meaty and complemented by the house steak sauce. My burger was hefty, served on a sesame seed bun with thick cut fries. Following orders from the Eater article praising the Luger burger, I skipped the bacon and cheese options and stuck to the basics. It was a good burger, meaty, so juicy, well seasoned and perfectly charred. This was the kind of burger that I want to sink my teeth into when I’m craving a burger.

Overall, lunch at Peter Luger was delicious and incredibly satisfying. We don’t go out for steak much anymore as Stephen’s technique gets better and better, but this meal was well worth the trip.

Tachi opened early 2018 and brought a whole new way of eating sushi to Toronto. The restaurant, located in Assembly Chef’s Hall, has only 8 standing spots and serves an omakase menu in under 30 minutes. I’ve been drooling over their social media posts since doors opened and seriously contemplated visiting while babywearing Alivia. Fortunately for her (and me), I had the chance to attend a private tasting while she hung out with Daddy and Grandma.

Disclaimer: All food and drinks reviewed below were provided complimentary. All opinions expressed below are wholly mine.

Atmosphere: Inside the crowded, bustling industrial style food hall, Tachi was a moment of zen. Diners waited outside until their reservation time. Once inside, a large door slid closed and created a wonderfully intimate and cozy feel. Two chefs stood behind a wooden L shaped sushi bar, expertly serving piece after piece of edomae sushi. Each standing spot was marked with a small wooden block bearing a number in kanji and set with a bamboo leaf where the nigiri was placed. The focus was all on the sushi. I loved how peaceful and calm the space felt.

Service: While the meal was quick, every interaction with the hostess and sushi chefs was welcoming and efficient. Outside the restaurant, a digital clock shows “Tachi Time” and counts down to the next seating. Once I picked my spot, number 7, the server took my drink order and I hung my coat on one of the many wall hooks available. There was also a convenient shelf underneath the sushi bar for bags. Every spot had a prime view of the sushi chefs at work.

Food: Tachi’s menu changes often and is posted at their entrance, 12 pieces for $55. There is also typically a daily special like uni or wagyu that can be added for an additional charge. The selection of fish was diverse, including premium pieces like uni, otoro and scallop while the quality was on par with other, far more expensive, omakase restaurants in the city. There was also less common fish served like sea bream, fluke and bonito. In fact salmon wasn’t even served that night and I didn’t miss it, instead savouring my pieces of ikura and anago. Each piece of fish had a great texture and tasted incredibly fresh. The flavour of the seasoned soy sauce was salty and sweet without masking any of the natural fish flavour.

Overall, the omakase experience at Tachi was delicious and such a steal for the quality and variety of fish. The first lunch seating is at 11:15pm, last at 2:15pm (a perfect splurge lunch) while dinner begins at 5:15pm and ends at 8:15pm. I would highly recommend reservations.

Last year for our anniversary Stephen made reservations at Alo months in advance, as required, for their Kitchen Counter tasting menu. Then we found out I was expecting. I called the restaurant to ask about the menu and sadly over half the courses had raw ingredients that I couldn’t eat. Cry. This year we decided to forgo the ordeal trying to get a reservation and celebrated at their sister restaurant, Aloette. Being on maternity leave, I had the luxury of meeting Stephen for an early dinner, 4pm, without any worry of missing Alivia’s bedtime.

Atmosphere: Arriving at 4pm, we had no trouble getting a table. It was also still Aloette hour (3:00pm – 4:30pm), which meant $10 cocktails and wines by the glass. Sun streamed into the long narrow restaurant adding to the cozy fell of the space. Padded wood booths lined one wall and a classic diner bar ran along the opposite. While the afternoon light made the restaurant feel comfortable and relaxed, I could easily imagine the transformation to bustling bar and place to be by the evening.

Service: I really liked our server, who was friendly and seemed genuinely happy. She explained why their famous uni toast wasn’t on the menu that day (supply issues) and recommended her favourite dishes to try. She separated our order into two courses for us, which I always appreciate when there aren’t clear appetizer/entree delineations. All of the dishes arrived promptly and with a brief introduction. This was our first outing since Alivia’s birth and at one point we were checking on her via her nursery camera. Our server noticed and asked a few questions about her then let us know how baby friendly they were. In fact the other occupied table that afternoon had a stroller pulled up beside it.

Food: It’s been 6 months since our meal at Aloette and I still think about their cheesy brioche toast. The slices of thick, cheesy, sweet bread topped with a healthy slab of butter were heavenly and dinner hadn’t even started yet. This was just the complimentary bread.

For our actual dinner, we ordered the Roasted Squid with pork belly and kimchi, the Parisienne Gnocchi with snails and the Aloette Burger and Fries. Both the squid and gnocchi were spectacular and wonderfully balanced in terms of flavour and texture. The squid was tender and the pork belly crispy. The kimchi added acidity and heat while cubes of compressed melon and slices of watermelon radish made each bite unique and varied. The gnocchi were pillowy and chewy, perfect really and the beans fresh and sweet. I only wish potions were bigger because I could’ve eaten so much more.

The Aloette burger was actually the weakest dish of the meal. This was still an excellent burger. Delicious with a meaty patty and wonderfully melted cheesy layer, but compared to our other two plates not as interesting or quite as special.

I had the pleasure of tasting Aloette’s Iceberg Wedge Salad at the Best New Restaurants 2018 unveiling in October and was surprised by how much I could like a salad. Each bite had layers of texture and flavour from the crunchy lettuce to the creamy avocado and topped with curls of parmesan and puffed wild rice. Needless to say I went back for several bites.

Our last meal in Italy was one of the highlights of the two week trip. Dinner at Alla Vecchia Bettola was the perfect mix of homey comfort, delicious food and unlimited house wine. Looking back, I wish I had cut a few days in Rome in favour of more time in Florence and Tuscany. We likely won’t be visiting Italy again soon but hopefully the next trip will include a reservation at Osteria Francescana.

Atmosphere: We headed to the restaurant as doors opened and had no issues being seated without a reservation. This was not the case for many well-reviewed restaurants in Rome, a happy difference. The restaurant was cozy with well worn wooden stools and marble table tops. I loved how warm the bustling space felt with a wall lined with wine bottles and brass sconces lighting each table. This was the kind of restaurant where dinner could easily stretch late into the night with good company and good food.

Service: While the menu was in Italian, it wasn’t too difficult to decipher with some Google Translating. Our server took our order in English and it was a just a short wait before our pasta dish arrived. The Florentine Steak was ready quickly after and we were left to enjoy our meal. I liked that the bread charge was clearly stated on the menu in large font.

Food: Dinner was good. Really really good. After placing our order Stephen and I started chatting with the older couple next to us. They told us how they came to Italy for their honeymoon years ago and loved the Penne alla Bettola (penne in vodka sauce) so much that they come back to Alla Vecchia Bettola almost annually for the dish. After just the first bite, I could see why. The pasta was an excellent texture and the sauce addictive. I liked how it was sweet and cheesy without being heavy and too creamy. Stephen and I both agreed we should have each ordered our own plate instead of one to share.

Then there was the steak, 40oz of beautifully cooked perfectly rare beef. We didn’t ask for a certain doneness while ordering and opted to embrace however the dish should be served. The steak was quite rare with a nice crust, lightly seasoned and extremely tender. We devoured the platter, but even for carnivores like us it was a feat. The bottle of house Chianti, which was unlimited, helped.

Overall, our meal at Alla Vecchia Bettola was superb, from the classic feel of the restaurant to the simply well cooked food. With a few missteps in Rome, I had been unsure if Italy was for me. The second part of our trip changed my mind with authentic flavours and stunning views.

On our last day in Rome, Stephen and I set off bright and early from our AirBnb in order to make it to Vatican City early in the morning. We had planned to visit the Vatican Museums before lunch and then head over to St. Peter’s Basilica for the afternoon. When we arrived around 10am (the museum opens at 9am), there was already a line along one wall, but didn’t circle the block yet. Even then, we didn’t get past the gates until close to 11am.
Tip: If you’re not set on seeing The Pope avoid visiting on Wednesdays, which can be busier with the Papal Audience.

The Museums had a great collection of sculptures and artifacts but what I loved were the stunning frescos. There wasn’t much information about each of the artifacts posted and I found the audio guide we were using (Rick Steve’s) short on details. A Guided Tour may have made the experience more enriching for us. Navigating the rooms were easy and there was really only one path to follow. At some points, we felt like sardines swimming down the corridors packed with tourists. My favourite rooms were the last 3 galleries on the upper floor including the Tapestry and Map room. The only way to get to the Sistine Chapel is through the museum, which takes about 2-3 hours to walk through depending on your pace and the crowd. It’s 100% worth it.
Tip: Once you get to The Sistine Chapel, you’ll be asked to keep moving and keep voices down. Try to find a free spot on the benches along the wall to take in the seriously breathtaking ceiling. Note that photos aren’t allowed although some tourists will try to sneak in a shot. I found the quiet reflective moment quite a nice break from all the tourist activities.

At this point after hours of walking, I was ready for a break. Stephen and I grabbed a snack and coffee at the cafe and rested before heading over to St. Peter’s Square. Once we arrived, we saw another long queue. We were running a few hours behind schedule and were pretty hungry so decided it was time to go find food. We didn’t get the chance to go inside St. Peter’s Basilica or visit the Vatican Gardens, which I would’ve liked to see if we hadn’t run out of stamina.
Tip: The Vatican has its own postal office and issues their own postage stamps, sending a postcard from the city makes a great souvenir for family and friends.

Wandering down a side street just outside of the city, we found a area filled with small shops and cafes. Stephen and I picked up a delicious porchetta sandwich and a few scoops of gelato before heading home.

One aspect I loved about Rome was how we could see so many historic sites and plazas from just walking from one attraction to the next. Many historical sites were free of charge to visit and part of experiencing the city was wandering through the heart of it. After our morning at the Colosseum and a quick bite, Stephen and I set off for The Pantheon. Along the way, we stopped by shops, took lots of photos on cobblestoned streets and of course, ate a lot more gelato.

This was one of our afternoons where we had no set plans, just a list of landmarks we wanted to see in a geographical area and time to explore.

Tip: This area of Rome was super walkable and filled with shops, cafes and gelato! Washrooms however, were hard to find. Most cafes only allow customers to use the in-store facilities so gelato breaks were much welcomed.

Entrance to The Pantheon was free of charge and open to visitors from 9am to 5:30pm Monday to Saturday, closing earlier on Sundays. Street performers entertained crowds in the square just outside and there were a few horse drawn cart vendors. Like in any crowded tourist area, I would recommend carrying backups at the front and making sure any valuables are stored in zippered inside pockets.

Tip: If you’re using Google maps, scenic sites are marked with a camera icon. Stephen and I stopped by a few on our walk (like the Fontana delle Tartarughe and Palazzo Cipolla) and really enjoyed each one.

Our next stop was the Trevi Fountain, which was beautiful and definitely worth a stop. Even with the large crowd of tourists we were able to enjoy the view, throw in a coin and get close enough to feel the fountain splash. There was room around the fountain to sit and enjoy an afternoon snack. From here we headed towards the Spanish Steps (with a few shopping stops along the way). Unfortunately, the steps were under renovation and mostly fenced off.

Tip: The area near the Spanish steps is known for a plethora of high end designer boutiques, similar to Bloor St. and 5th Ave. We popped into Prada to browse and Salvatore Ferragamo for some more serious shoe shopping.

The afternoon of walking was the perfect way to work up an appetite for dinner (even with two gelato stops).

Stephen and I arrived in Rome just after lunch and checked into our AirBnb, which was within walking distance to The Colosseum. We dropped off our bags and set out to grab a snack and catch the sunset at the ancient ruins. Of course, snack meant gelato. Before heading out, I looked up spots on our walking route and loaded the address into my offline maps app. This was how we navigated through most of Italy. With just a bit of pre-planning, we didn’t really miss wi-fi as we were out and about. The first night, we only planned to walk around the exterior and we returned the next day to explore the inside and The Forum. In total, we spent about 5-6 hours at the site taking our time.

The Colosseum Exterior

It was fairly easy to navigate to the Colosseum by foot. Although, as always the case with large monuments, it was longer than it seemed. Many of the streets leading to the Colosseum made for great photo spots. If you’re coming from further, there was a subway station right across the street. I would recommend walking around the entire building to see the different angles and exposed interior walls. There were much fewer guests at the side and back of the arena. It really was a quite a impressive structure to take in. Stephen and I spent some time just admiring the arches and columns.

The Colosseum Interior

Our second day in Rome, we headed back to The Colosseum after sleeping in and grabbing a coffee and pastry. We arrived at the ticket office around 10am and there was already quite a line. The Colosseum was open daily at 8:30am and close between 4:30pm and 7pm depending on the time of year. After we bought our tickets, the line to enter moved at a quick pace. There were lots of tour guides upselling “skip the line” tickets to groups in the entrance queue.
Tip: Tickets for both The Colosseum and The Forum can be bought at The Forum, which often has a much shorter line.
Stephen and I picked up one audio guide to share (for €12.00), which had a few visuals as well. It was interesting but could have been had more content. We decided to skip touring the catacombs, which would have added another hour to our time inside.
Tip: Bring water and a UV umbrella as there is little shade.

Palantino Hill and Roman Forum

From The Colosseum, we headed to The Palantino Hill and Forum. The ruins were expansive and you could easily hours wandering the area. Stephen and I for the most part stuck to the main path, the Via Sacra. At this point, it was the middle of the afternoon and we were ready for lunch. We didn’t spend too long exploring the Palatino but made sure to stop by the main temple ruins. At one point, we did hit a dead end and had to double back to exit back to the main street.
Tip: Entrance to The Palantino Hill is included in the Fare for the Colosseum and the ticket is valid for 2 consecutive days, providing lots of time to take in all the sites at a leisurely pace.